Тема: Урок: окрашивание силиконовой маски
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Урок: окрашивание силиконовой маски
I'm going to walk you through my process of painting a platsil gel10 silicone casting, the piece is tinted with powder pigmints and flocking.
your casting should be cleaned well with alcohol or acetone. you want a nice clean "canvas" to work with so that the paint bites to it well.
I will be useing an Iwata HP-CH double action with adjustable air pressure and needle draw back.
for paint I decided to use the gel10 itself thinned out with naptha, and tinted with oil paints. i also used some skin illistrators in the middle for some small things, i will get into that later.
I'm going about 70% airbrush and 30% by hand painting.
ill let you know what i'm useing through the process.
on this particular piece instead of putting back in the eye that was in the sculpture in the mold, then running the piece. I just ran it solid silicone, since i knew it was going to be a subbtle glazed over eye. I can easily paint that on the silicone and epoxy over it.
something I do with every color I put on, is thin it down alot. I like my colors to be very tanslucent and thin. I always wash my colors on, I dont ever out on a thick color.
building up translucent clors will give you the results your looking for.
also, you will get the intensity of the color you are looking for this way. your not just putting a color on their and saying "oh no this is too opaque and heavy of a color"
you can build up these almost invisibel colors untill you get the intensity you want.
I also apply every color in a broken up mottled pattern.
almost like makeing little "O's" or figure 8's...people do it diffrently. with an airbrush ecpecially, you dont want to get that "airrbushy" look that you see on alot of mass produced masks etc..... this is from applying a fairly opaque color in an even spray in one area, letting the color be hevy in the middle and face out on the sides....clasic "airbrush" look. this is very theatrical, and something to avoid.
anyway, onto the paint work.
here is the freshly seemed casting on its core-
I almost always start with a pinkish red color on my paint jobs. the entire piece usually gets a light mottle of this. i go hevier in some area of course, and lighter in others. you dont want things to even. always break things up.
so here ive started that a bit on the left side of the piece-
you can see how translucent the color really is.
here is a closeup of what it looks like, and when i refer to mottleing, this is what that means. this particular shot I had also added a light yellow modle in there as well, which ill get into later.
here is a progression of the eye area. this will show you how one color, in light washes can be built up to your desired intensity.
and here is the redish pink color all over the piece...this is about as far as I take this first layer.
I now go in with a vein blue color. this is a deformed guy, so I thought it would be good for a tutorial since one side will have some more distress and veinning, as the other is a tad more normal.
now I would use this blue on any human paint job, I just went hevier with the veins on this piece. I will use this color for not only veinning, but in the hollows of the face.....inder cheakbones, temples, around the eye area, and sometimes around the mouth a bit. this can bring some of the translucensy back into the piece, making it look a bit more tranclucent in areas. this color is also very much on the thin side.
next i use a light brown/beige color as well as a yellow. this the brown was airbrushed on, and the yellow was applied by hand. when I hand paint, i usualy use a dotting motion, or some brushes that have an organic uneven bristle.
I use the yellowish color on highspots alot, and to break up other colors etc.. but its sparratic. its not an "all over" type thing like the redish pink was.
same with the brownish color. it was much more of a sparattic thing.
next i'm going to use a dark redish purple color. its a dark color, but because its so thinned down it reads very nicely, the purple comes out and it warms the piece up.
i start out by applying this by hand again, I'm useing this to pop some of that origional pinnkish color, mostly in the face area, nasilabial folds, ears, the lows of the face, not highlights.
I then took a light color, about the color of the base tint of the silicone.
you should hardly ever use a lighter color then youre base color silicone is, but for things like this it works very good. it can add a great deal of depth and translucensy in choice areas. here you can see a very subbtle variation of this.
I then took that dark purpleish color, and lightened it up a bit, and put it in the airbrush.
I then started to distress the deformed areas a bit more, and give some secondary veinning on the head. i did it not only there, but I took this o a few other parts of the place.
then again after this ill go back and do the light color over choice areas, giving layers of color like this will keep adding depth to the skin.
i also used an olive green color, I did this in a few highlights as well....it works with the previous yellow color I applied. the olive colors where more on the right side of the face, the more 'normal" side...and the left, deformed side is much warmer with not much olive in it, as you can see here a bit more.
So just to state, when i move past one color, I may go back to the color 2 or 3 more times after words to punch something up or go somewhere all new with the color....You will see things with your eye that you will say, this could use more of this, less of this etc....
just go back and do it. just with the colors I did with this paint job I could do 100's of variations. hevier/lighter with colors will make it look totally diffrent. you could do a pretty crazy looking creature with just colors like this.
so as i dar close to the end, i just keep going back and forth with variations of colors Ive used, punching little things up, adding all the details to the paint job really. tieing eveyrhting together so it all blends well.
and somewhere in the mixes of that, i added color to the eye....close to where I was adding details and final things
the base tint of the silicone is fairly light, and in contrast to the rest of the piece it works well for a base color of an eye. then i just did a real quick light blue iris shape, and then another white wash over this to milk it up. thats it, real quick.
most of these end details and small things like this where done with skin illistrators. its just easier to get the exact colors I want and controll them easily with them.
once all of my details are all done up and i'm happy with everything i do a final seal coat of clear silicone sprayed all over the entire piece. this will seal in those illistratos on the top there, and firther seal previous silicone paint layers.
i then let that fully dry and dusted the entire piece in Cabo to get rid of the shine, and put a bit of 5 min epoxy on the eye.
and there you have it, the final head-
I'm sure i left some things out, as i'm in the swing of painting and doing things, i cant possibly document everything I do. alot of it is just by eye, what i see and think I need to add. just artistic freedom.....it will vairy from piece to piece and there are no rules in this.
So unless this where a video, you cant see everything i'm doing, but I hope you can get the idea. and this is somewhat helpfull.
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